Herringbone Stitch

Step 1: Preparation

Cut a length of thread, approximately 12 to18 inches long, to ensure it is manageable and doesn't tangle easily. Thread the needle and knot the end of the thread to prevent it from pulling through the fabric. (see our video - Getting Started In Hand Stitching for a simple starting knot , or the Getting Started in Hand Stitching blog page for a description with photos.)

If you are using our stitch guide, mark your fabric. For practice stitching, pencil works well. I have used a 2B pencil here, which is soft enough to make clear marks.

Step 2: Starting the Stitch

Imaging two parallel lines on your fabric. The marks from the stitch guide follow these lines. You stitches will be made between these two lines as we learn how to create Herringbone stitch.

Insert the needle into the fabric from the underside at the point where you want to start your stitch, along one of the two lines.

Pull the thread through until the knot rests against the fabric.

Step 3: Making the Stitches

Push the needle back into and through the fabric a short distance away. This will be on the second line, and along.

Bring the needle back to the front of the fabric, still on the second line, and back towards your first stitch point.

Take the needle through the fabric again, this time back on the first line, and a little further along the stitching line.

Step 4: Continuing the Pattern

Continue the herringbone stitch by repeating the process. Take the needle back and up along the first line, cross to the second line and along, and push the needle back into the fabric. Try to keep your gabs between the stitches consistent in length and spacing. The evenness of the stitches will contribute to the overall appearance and strength of the seam or line of stitching.

To speed up the process, instead of pulling the thread all the way through the fabric for each stitch, inserting the needle and drawing it back to the front can be done in one movement. Care still needs to be taken to keep the stitches an even distance apart.

Step 5: Finishing the Stitch

When you reach the end of your line of stitching, bring the needle to the under side of the fabric.

Make a small knot close to the fabric to secure the thread. Trim any excess thread with scissors. (see our video - Getting Started in Hand Stitching for a simple end knot, or the Getting Started in Hand Stitching blog page for a description with photos.)

Double Herringbone Stitch

A popular variant of herringbone stitch is double herringbone stitch. In this variation, the same line of stitching is covered twice, with the second line of herringbone stitch between the gaps left by the first.

Square Herringbone Stitch

Another variation is square herringbone, where instead of following two parallel lines, the stitches are made in a square shape, the crosses creating right angles in the threads.

Herringbone stitch can be both functional and decorative.

In construction, herringbone stitch may be used for catching up a hem.

Here, just a few threads of fabric are caught by each pass of the stitch through the fabric, making it almost invisible on the right side of the piece. The crossing of the thread makes it less likely to pull if the thread gets caught.

A very popular use of herringbone stitch is also known as double back stitch, where two lines of back stitch are effectively created by the closed herringbone stitch, but with a net of threads between them. This is used for shadow work, where the outline of the shape can be seen, and the filling is a subtle shadow against the fabric.

Varying the length of the stitch, the gap between the stitch or the alignment of parallel lines of stitching can all make simple but effective decorative statements.

In our project Miriam (see below), herringbone stitch provides a decorative element, and the density of the stitch is modified as it goes around the curves.